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July 17 (Day 37) - First day at Yosemite National Park

We got an early start leaving the campground at 7am as we weren’t sure of the parking availability in Yosemite and it was forecasted to be another very hot day. We took the same picturesque drive from yesterday but this time went past the market to the Park’s entrance. Once inside the gates we had to drive through two large dark gray rocks coming together in a point above, forming a triangular tunnel of sorts. If this was an indication for what’s to come we were in for a very cool day.

I was mesmerized and really felt my short stature as I observed how long and lean everything was in Yosemite. The multitude of trees were extremely skinny and exceptionally tall with the peaks of the surrounding mountains soaring even higher.

When we got to the parking lot we breathed a sigh of relief as we saw we would not have an issue finding a spot. We made our way to the visitors center right away but were a bit confused when the door wouldn’t open. Before we left we checked the website which posted it would open at 8:30 and it was right about that time. The sign on the door said it opened at 9.

Fortunately, the visitor center was located in Yosemite Village which had plenty of other things to check out while we waited.

Just down the pathway was the Yosemite Museum with exhibits focusing on the cultural history of Yosemite's Indians from 1850 to the present. This also wasn't open yet but there were some outdoor exhibits such as a teepee made of tree trunks that the girls went running towards. They went inside and had a lot of fun peering out of the little window (a hole in one of the trunks).

We took the rest of our extra time to sit on a bench and take in our new surroundings for the next two days. Right from that bench in front of the visitor center we caught a first glimpse at a small portion of the magnificent Yosemite Falls above the tree line. Lily felt compelled to write in her journal while we waited.

Once the doors opened we took note of the ranger programs and debated doing the 9:30 junior ranger program at Happy Isles. Since we only had 15 minutes to spare and would have to take the shuttle we decided we would start our day with that program tomorrow. We talked with the ranger to receive recommendations and get the girls’ junior ranger sheets. For those wishing to become a Yosemite Junior Ranger they gave you a paper to work on for free to earn your badge. There was also an activity book for $3.00 and upon completion an additional patch would be given. The girls both really wanted the books so we bought one for each. One of the activities needed to earn the patch was to help clean the park. We received an unexpected free gift with purchase at checkout to aid with this task. Everyone who purchased a junior ranger book was given a glove and plastic bag for their trash collection. Well, to Adam’s dismay the girls took to this right away and were very serious about it. As we headed through Yosemite Village to the Lower Yosemite Falls Trail Head their eyes were down and they were making this short walk take a very long time as they did their part to clean the park and add to their bags. It was amazing to see just how inconsiderate people are as we focused on this. Lily picked up a broken bicycle light and they both picked up food wrappers, bits of paper, etc. They were stopping to gather every little speck of trash and Adam was starting to get very bothered. He finally had to tell them they could each pick up 2 more things and then had to surrender their gloves and trash bags. They were very disappointed by this and it took some convincing on my part for them to feel it was ok to stop. It took about another 15 minutes but they finally begrudgingly concluded this portion of their Yosemite Junior Ranger activities. Who would have thought picking up trash would provide them with such focus and enjoyment?!?

Once we finished with the trash collection we started on the Lower Yosemite Fall trail. This is a 1 mile loop that is paved and relatively easy. It provides spectacular views of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls from many different vantage points. The trail itself was a nature lovers paradise.

[Slideshow of pictures along the trail]

We fell in love with the puzzle piece like bark on the trees around us.

At one point we came across a fallen tree suspended above the ground with the support of a few upright trees. The girls had a blast climbing up and using it as a balance beam. They also enjoyed being underneath of it pretending to hold it up.

A little further down the trail we spotted an exquisite bird who matched a beautiful blue feather Ella found earlier in the trail. This bird looked like he had a mohawk which we all thought was funny. From the top of his head to the middle of his body he had charcoal feathers and from the middle of his back to the tip of his tail he had bright blue feathers. He hopped around in front of us before flying off into the tree branches.

The girls spotted another fallen tree and ran off to climb this one too.

After all these little stops we finally made it to the bridge at the base of the lower section of Yosemite Falls. Keeping true to Yosemite’s form, we had to literally put our heads all the way back to see the top of the falls as it’s narrow stream fell from high above. It was hard to believe that from this vantage point we could only see the lower section and there was still more above it. While we read the exhibit boards we learned this was the tallest waterfall in the country at 2,425 feet fed entirely by melting snow and goes dry towards the end of summer. We felt very fortunate to be there while it was flowing. It's hard to get a sense of the scale from the picture below but to help, the tiny little dots on the rocks at the base are people.

Once we crossed the bridge we claimed our spot on a bench that sat just past it. As we did this a park ranger went through the path on horseback. He noticed people wanted to see the horse and he stopped. We immediately joined the crowd that had formed.

After our turn petting the handsome horse we went back to the bench. The girls were apparently still in hyper focus mode as they now spotted a ladybug who had yet to get it’s black dots and became obsessed with it.

They stayed plastered to the bench and took turns holding the ladybug letting it climb all over them while never taking their eyes off of it. Adam and I left them there and went over to spend some time looking at the gorgeous, amazingly tall waterfall. It was beautiful to see the water cascading and spraying down the mountainside and onto the large boulders below.

Standing on the bridge in front of the falls also provided an incredible view as we faced the other direction. It was so peaceful to watch and listen as the river flowed over the rocks and traveled it’s tree lined banks. The water was crystal clear and you could very easily see the rock lined bottom.

After a long while it was time to move on. The girls sadly left their dotless ladybug friend behind (as a junior ranger they have learned one should never move anything in nature, ladybugs included) and Adam and I soaked in one last, up-close view of the Lower Yosemite Falls. As we continued on the trail we came to an enormous rock garden. The horseback ranger didn’t make it very far as he was now at this area with another crowd gathered around. We had to go over to see the horse one more time.

Then the girls dove right in and played with all the rocks around them building cairns and making designs.

When they finished I showed them a large rock on the other side of the trail with a huge gap in the middle and we all piled in.

We started our hike again and at one point I noticed several people facing the opposite direction taking pictures. As I turned around I immediately saw the breathtaking view of the waterfall from a vantage point where you could see the upper and lower portion at the same time. We all stopped to take it in.

By this point we were ready for lunch. Luckily this trail ended very close to Yosemite Lodge. We walked over to their cafeteria style restaurant and grabbed a quick bite. While we were eating we had our first encounter with the impact of the wildfires burning very close to the park. All of a sudden the electricity went out and it went dark followed by a load groan from everyone. Thankfully this only lasted a few minutes and was followed by an eruption of cheers. At that point we were almost finished anyway. Before we left the electricity went out one more time and again came back quickly.

After lunch we went back to the end of the Lower Yosemite Falls Trail. There were several picnic tables set up there and the girls wanted to have some time to work on their ranger sheets. I laid down on the bench and watched the waterfall while they worked.

Before we started our day we thought by this point we would be heading back due to the heat. Somehow, I am guessing in large part to the abundance of trees, the heat in the park did not feel as bad as was forecasted. While we were warm we were all still comfortable and very much wanted to stay. As we sat at the picnic tables we got a good laugh as a squirrel climbed up onto a neighboring table and took the rest of a little girl’s sandwich that she laid down.

Next we decided we would do the 1 mile Cooke’s Meadow loop trail to get a good view of Half Dome. This was such an interesting point in the mountain as it was perfectly round on one side and completely flat on the other.

While we were in the Meadow we turned around to see Yosemite Falls and from this vantage point again we could see both the lower and upper sections at once.

There was a boardwalk path to follow allowing visitors to enjoy without disturbing the vegetation and providing a dry path as it was somewhat marshy in sections.

As we walked the path Ella spotted an extremely unusual iridescent blue insect on one of the plants and called us over to check it out.

At the end of the pathway we went through the parking lot to the top of the bridge over The River of Mercy. We didn’t want to miss this view as it was the exact location portrayed in Ansel Adams’ famous photograph. Standing there it was so magnificent it didn’t feel real but more like we were inside a painting. Several people had rented rafts and we enjoyed watching them travel down the river. The girls got a kick out of seeing the dog in a life jacket on one of the rafts with it’s family.

As we noticed the time we decided to head back to the visitor center because we wanted to attend the 4pm Ranger talk. On our walk back we noticed there was now a haze over Half Dome which we were guessing was even more evidence of the wildfires nearby.

The girls decided to take a rest and literally laid down on the path while they drank from their camelbaks.

We made it back to the Visitors Center just in time for the talk. It was very interesting to hear the history behind Yosemite. This was the first land in our country to be protected by the government and deemed a state park. At that point the national park system did not exist. We learned that Yellowstone was the first to be declared a National Park. When the talk was over I asked the ranger about the blue birds with mohawks we continued to see and she told me they were called Steller’s Jays.

After the ranger talk we went inside the Visitors Center and checked out the exhibit inside. The girls also completed their activity sheet and were ready to get their badges. We lucked out with the amazing ranger at the desk. She came around to the front of the desk and sat on the floor with the girls while she went over their sheets with them. They all stood up and she swore them in and gave them their badges.

Before leaving for the night we went into The Ansel Adams Gallery in the park. While we were in the store the power went out and came back on again quickly a few times (continued evidence of the nearby wildfire’s impact).

Adam wanted to stop in the market at the park before we headed back. We took some time to gather the items we wanted but ended up putting them all back when we saw the crazy long checkout line that seemed to be 50 people deep and literally winded around as far as the eye could see. As we drove back to the campsite the sun was starting to set and it looked like a blazing ball of fire in the sky above as you could see it through smoke that continued to blow in from the wildfires.

We got back much later than we thought we would. We ate a quick dinner and spent the rest of the night watching the movie Miss You Already with Drew Barrymore. It was extremely sad and the girls and I cried. It was a little disappointing we didn’t get back to the pool at the lodge but we had such a great day we were all ok with that.


Life On The Road Trip

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